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March 23, 2010

Shanghai slowly warming up to the Expo

The Spring is late this year in Shanghai. With temperatures well below the average for March, the thousands of Haibaos, the blue mascots shaped like 人 (person) that stand on every intersection of the city, must be feeling the chill.

Starting May 1, the Expo is just over a month away now, but Shanghai continues to live its busy life, and the locals are slow to warm up to the idea.

Despite breathy reports from advertising agents indicating that Chinese people are excited about the Expo, it is hard to find anyone seriously for or against it in Shanghai.

The mood is of Shanghainese aloofness, and even the controversy about the impact on housing prices (this year's hot social issue) has failed to catch on. Online, popular Shanghai-based forums like KDS still don't have any Expo threads among the hot topics.

Surely nobody is missing the ugly politicization that preceded the 2008 Olympics, nor the lamentable scenes seen during the torch run. But sometimes bad press is better than no press, and it is hard to avoid the feeling that a bit more of controversy might help to kick start the fever.

On the international scene, the promotion efforts have come under criticism lately. While some individual pavilions are doing a great job of promoting themselves (e.g. the U.K. and Germany) see some websites here), other countries like the U.S.A. are facing serious financial and planning problems and have not done much advertising.

More crucially, the work done by the general organizers of the Expo seems too exclusively focused on China. They have invaded the country with an army of Haibaos, but the international side of the campaign is weak, as illustrated by this ineffective billboard that appeared on New York's Times Square. Even the official website of the Expo displays an amateurish visual design seemingly disconnected from the futuristic pavilions that it advertises.

An event unique in history

In spite of all the above, the Expo's spring is finally starting. With the end of the NPC meetings last weekend, the focus of the Chinese media is turning to the Expo, and the city newspapers are publishing long special sections dedicated to the event.

Slowly, news and pictures of the construction are starting to trickle onto the internet, and the security measures that started this week in the Shanghai metro are making everyone aware of what is coming.

It may be coming a bit late, but it is coming sure, and there are good reasons to pay close attention. All seems to indicate that the Shanghai World Fair will be a significant event, comparable to the classic World Fairs that shaped our ideas of the Western metropolis.

The raw numbers of the Expo speak for themselves. It is expected to attract between 70 and 80 million visitors, which would make it the highest attendance of any single event in history, by a large margin. While television audiences of a sport show can dwarf this quantity, in terms of real human contact the number of people from different cultures that are going to get together is unprecedented, and it has the potential to change the relations of China with the World.

At a time when misunderstandings between cultures are rife, such events that promote communication and participation rather than passive spectator animosity can have a very real impact.

For most Chinese it is extremely difficult to travel abroad, especially outside the South East Asian region. In spite of the number of foreigners concentrated in Beijing and Shanghai, for many inhabitants of smaller cities foreigners are still a novelty, and their cultures are greatly misunderstood. With the 3 day entrance passes set at relatively affordable prices, these people will flow into Shanghai en masse.

For many of them, the possibility of meeting all the different "foreign friends" classified by continent and country will be as exciting an any of the buildings in the Expo. Foreign visitors may be surprised when people take pictures of them as if they were walking pavilions.

As with all events involving large construction projects, detractors point at the purely commercial interests of the participants, who see the Expo as a country branding event. While this is certainly true, the fact that all the countries will have direct access to the most promising tourist market of the world will also be a motivation for them to show their best attractions.

Although less hyped in the media, the Expo 2010 will be a more friendly event than its Beijing 2008 forerunner, both for foreign and for the Chinese visitors. The security challenge is important and the inconvenience of five months of high security measures will be felt in Shanghai, but the relatively relaxed international atmosphere will make things easier for all. The Ministry of Foreign Affairs has already announced it will adopt an easy visa policy during the Expo period, so we will probably avoid the difficult conditions that made 2008 a tough year for many foreigners wishing to work or just visit China.

This year's event also makes much more sense than many of the Expos organized in the last decades, almost exclusively celebrated by developed countries. This is the first World Fair in a long time where the organizing country has something to prove, and it will make all its efforts to make it a special occasion. Like Paris or Chicago in the 19th century, China is living the enthusiasm of an economic revolution. We already saw two years ago what the Chinese are able to produce for the grand occasions, and the EXPO will be a better chance for many people to enjoy that directly.

This will be the last large-scale international event marking the ascent of China, and together with the 2008 Olympics it will serve as a landmark in history. It is possible that in a few years, many in the West will not remember what the 2010 Expo was about, but for the people of China, this year might mark the beginning of a new era.


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Google's big move

All those weeks of talks finally came to a head early this morning, as Google stopped censoring its search results in China. Instead of google.cn, users are being directed to an uncensored version of google.com.hk in simplified Chinese. On the company's official blog, Google’s Senior Vice President David Drummond says that routing through Hong Kong is a legal move, although the Chinese government can still block access to the site. By doing so, Google can continue to offer its search engine to Chinese users outside the jurisdiction of mainland Chinese law, a move the WSJ quotes a source as saying seems to be an “elegant solution if it were to hold,” but China will most likely not allow it to continue.

But we learned all about that in the wee hours of the morning. In the day that's followed, the world over has exploded with opinions and commentary - almost as much as when Google first announced it was pulling out of the country.

Reaction from the Chinese government has been swift and uncompromising. Google has "violated its written promise" and has made ";unreasonable accusations," Xinhua quotes a government official as saying. On the U.S. side, Washington released a statement saying it was "disappointed" that Google could not reach an agreement with Beijing although it respected its decision. The administration is “committed to Internet freedom and … opposed to censorship. While we seek to expand cooperation on issues of mutual interest with China, we will candidly and frankly address areas of disagreement,” said National Security Council spokesman Mike Hammer.


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March 16, 2010

Google.cn almost certainly to be no more

The big piece of news over the weekend is that Google is now, in fact, 99.9% certain it will be shutting down its China search engine operations after negotiations... well, didn't go so well?

It seems like Google CEO Eric Schmidt's comments that the whole debacle was drawing to a close were true - though perhaps not in the way Google had hoped. Li Yizhong, Minister of Industry and Information Technology, words for if Google did follow up on its threat to uncensor search results were equally threatening: "If you don't respect Chinese laws, you are unfriendly and irresponsible, and the consequences will be on you."

Anyway, to get everyone up to speed, here's some conjecture, speculation and official opinions on the whole shebang from a smattering of web news sources:

  • According to the Wall Street Journal, Google is likely to "take action within weeks." Also, Chinese authorities have already told local news sites that if Google.cn does shut down, they are only to publish the "official accounts of the situation."
  • Google's biggest web partners have also been warned that "they should prepare backup plans in case Google ceases censoring the results of searches," says the New York Times. These web partners include Sina and Ganji, who both use Google search boxes.
  • Google China has not yet released a statement in response, but a Beijing-based spokesperson for the company said its business was still "normal," according to the Global Times. Wang Jinhong denied media reports that Google employees are planning to resign in droves after the company doles out its year-end bonus at the end of March.
  • Premier Wen Jiabao has reiterated that despite what's happening with certain foreign companies (though he didn't mention which), the country welcomes them to legally operate in China and that they are treated equally.
  • At least one other foreign company is profiting from Google's possible oust: Microsoft is putting its Bing search engine on Chinese Android phones... specifically, the new ones from Motorola.

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Liu puts positive spin on seventh place finish

Liu Xiang (刘翔) and his coach Sun Haiping are putting a positive spin on the once world champion hurdler's seventh-place performance at World Indoor Championships in Doha, Qatar, over the weekend. Liu clocked a time of 7.65 seconds in the 60-meter hurdles, in his first major international competition since he limped off the track at the 2008 Olympics in Beijing. Olympic champion Dayron Robles of Cuba came in first, and the USA's Terrence Trammell was second.

Liu had set a goal of making the finals at Doha, which he accomplished, and Sun said the competition had not done any further damage to his runner's surgically repaired Achilles tendon.

Liu now has about a year and a half to prepare for the next IAAF World Championships in Athletics, scheduled to begin August 27, 2011 in Daegu, Korea. Before that, he will no doubt be expected to bring home a gold medal for China at the Asian Games in Guangzhou this coming November.


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March 08, 2010

The yuppies of China: Xiaozi (小资)

Elliot Ng of CNReviews has a really interesting article up on a new breed of people in China and the new term they've been nicknamed: Xiaozi (小资). So what does it mean? Apparently, Xiaozi is translated as the "petty" part of "petty bourgeoisie," but it's meaning is related more to the now maturing richer middle class in China that's attracted to "Western" commercial and artistic culture.

Which means that China's now been rich (or, more correctly, had people getting rich) long enough for there to be class divides within the rich people. No longer do they and their rich friends only sneer at the poor folk, they can also sneer at other rich folks that don't understand things like "environmentalism" and "creative culture" and "coffee." Aka The Yuppie.

Anyway, he also found a quiz to determine if you (or your friend) are a Chinese yuppie: Here's 20 questions, see how you (or your friend) fit:

Are they jaded about Chinese national events, and resist being defined by “official” and mainstream culture?
Do they like to sit in cafes? Do they like to drink coffee?
Do they appreciate red wine (and really appreciate it, not mix it with Coke)?
Do they crave outbound travel? Do they want to visit Tibet?
Are they focused on self-expression through fashion? Do they look down on people who spend money on brands without true appreciation of fashion?
Do they sometimes have a sense of being somehow different from the rest of society? That they are seeking something that cannot be found?
Do they use their English name, even with other Chinese people?
Do they like to socialize with foreigners? Do they like to date foreigners?
Are they picky in their love life? Do they feel that most traditional members of the opposite sex don’t understand their love of life, and their need for creative self-definition? Attitude of “if I’m not in love, I’d rather die”
Do they like foreign hobbies like Yoga? or Salza dancing?
Do they known multiple languages? Do they have good scores on TOEFL, GRE, and other foreign placement tests?
Do they like popular intellectual Western literature like Italo Calvino or Jorge Luis Borges?
Do they like Western popular music, electronica or jazz?
Do they tend to watch Western TV shows and like to complain about the low quality of Chinese media?
Are they Web-savvy? Do they like Western Web 2.0 sites and the more clean Western aesthetic of Web design?
Do they like all things Apple Computer?
Do they like blocked Western Websites like Twitter and Facebook?
Do they use Google, not Baidu?
Do they use MSN messenger or Skype, but not QQ?
Do they visit Douban, Onlylady or Rayli.com.cn?

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March 04, 2010

8 local Chinese food recommendations for newcomers

I have a lot of friends back in New York who've never been to China, but if they were coming here and I gave them any one of the food recommendations Global Times has so (un)helpfully listed for "foreign visitors," they'd cock an eyebrow, mutter something impolite and go ask someone else. Honestly, kung pao chicken? Wontons? DUMPLINGS?! The whole point of recommending something is to give someone the chance to try something they haven't before. Rather than just rip to shreds this laughable article, however, I've had a quick brainstorming session with other China hands and come up with eight better recommendations.

This list assumes that your friend just came to China from foreign lands, where there are Chinese restaurants (I mean, where aren't there nowadays?), but they don't normally come in contact with communities as huge as the one in Flushings, Queens or San Francisco CT. They've tried fried rice, they get egg drop soup with every delivery and - since it was the craze for quite a while - they at least know what a xiaolongbao (or soup dumpling, as they'll call them) is.

 

foodrec_jianbing.jpg 

1. Jian Bing (煎饼)

Ah, the delicious Chinese breakfast crepe, hot and crispy and fresh off the grill. Take your friend to your local jian bing purveyor and - if they're a heartier lad (or laddess) - ask for two eggs, yes spice, yes to the sauce, crispy dough or fried dough and watch your friend gasp in awe when the total comes out to 2.50RMB (or cheaper if you're not in Shanghai city center).

 

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From Flickr user benchilada

 

2. Duck Egg and Pork Porridge (pi dan shou rou zhou 皮蛋瘦肉粥)

While we're on the subject of breakfast foods - this is always a crowd pleaser. While you can get this in Chinatowns all over the world, it's surprising how few non-Chinese people have tried it. We bet it has something to do with the color of the duck eggs. Don't let them get away with it here. If they really need convincing, wait until the morning after you guys have had a rough night out - it's a surprisingly great hangover food.


foodrec_lanzhou.jpg
Photo by Gary Soup

 

3. Lan Zhou La Mian (兰州拉面)

The praises we could sing of Lan Zhou La Mian, the pulled noodles in a clear beef broth that no one who visits any Eastern port in China should go without trying. Just remember to remind your friend that, while there's beef in the noodles, there won't be a lot and you're mainly eating the dish for the noodles - supple, chewy and fresh - themselves. Also have them try the dao xiao mian (knife cut noodles) at some point in time; they're my personal favorite. Expect to pay only 4 to 6RMB for a bowl.

 

foodrec_sjb.jpg
Photo by liquoredonlife

 

4. Panfried pork dumplings (sheng jian bao 生煎包)

Going back to breakfast foods, while xiaolongbao has made in roads into other parts of the world, the shengjianbao has yet to find a foothold in any but the most Chinese of Chinatowns. Maybe the apparatuses for cooking them are just harder to set up or something. I don't know about that. What I do know is: when I introduced a new-to-China friend to his first Styrofoam container of shengjianbao, he throatily declared that this was all he would eat the rest of the time here. Luckily, that lasted til dinner, when I presented him with a plate of...

 

5. Red-braised pork (Hong Shao Rou 红烧肉)

The favorite of Mao Ze Dong... and for good reason. Just listing out the ingredients the pork is braised in - sugar, cinnamon, chilis and star anise (sometimes garlic) - gets your mouth watering. While the more health conscious might want to remove the fat and skin, try to get them not to. It's one of the things that make this decadent hearty dish so very good.

 

foodrec_fish.jpg
Photo by sifu renka

 

6. Steamed Whole Fish (Qing Zheng Yv 清蒸鱼)

For something a little healthier, get a whole steamed fish. While some less adventurous eaters may be put off by the fish head and tail being on the plate (I don't get it, but hey - more fish cheek for me), it's one of those quintessential dishes on every real Chinese menu that they have to at least try. It usually comes steamed with ginger and green onions in a light soy and sesame oil sauce. Yum.

 

foodrec_malatang.jpg
Photo by Micah Sittig

 

7. Mala Tang (麻辣烫)

Sometimes described as the poor man's hot pot, but I think that's a little harsh. Malatang is another one of those oh-so-satisfying late night establishments that your friend absolutely must wander into. Choose your own veggies and meats from the fridge and a cook will boil them up with a standard stock. We've recommended at least one great place before, but honestly, since all that food is out there to see, I've yet to actually eat at one that really disappoints me. Make sure your friend tries the actual chili soup at least once - nothing like that weird numbing sensation to really emphasize that you've eaten in China.

 

twist.jpg 

8. Shaved Ice (bao bing 刨冰)

Also called tsua bing in Taiwan, which is where I think it came from. Well, at least, the best places in Shanghai to get bao bing is at Taiwanese food joints. Thinly shaved ice with condensed milk on top and an assortment of other things - fruit, red bean, taro, peanuts... it's really up to you. Even with the condensed milk, it's so much healthier than ice cream and it's delicious.

Well, there you go. Eight recommendations for foreign visitors. Obviously, there's way more to Chinese cuisine than just these eight picks (for instance, all Chinese vegetarian food is definitely worth a shot - it's nothing like veggie food in the States), but I'm just trying to match the Global Times here.

If you have your own recommendations, put them into comments!


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