
When Nathan Fong was growing up in Vancouver, Chinese New Year meant his grandparents spending hours in the kitchen preparing an eight-course feast.
It was the same in most Chinese homes. But today, busy lifestyles mean that a new generation and their children are choosing to celebrate the Year of the Rat, which begins Feb. 7, by eating out in restaurants catering to the traditional tastes of families - more often than not large families.
"So many restaurants are totally booked up for the festival," says Fong, a food stylist, journalist and commentator for television and radio in the B.C. city. "When I look at my whole family - uncles, aunts and cousins totalling about 100 - the only time we can get together is at a restaurant."
There are plenty of them in Vancouver and neighbouring suburbs where he estimates 25 to 30 per cent of the population is ethnic Asian.
"Chinese New Year is so big here that a lot of the mainstream activities are being held all through the lower mainland," says the 46-year-old Fong.
Two of the largest eateries are Floata Seafood Restaurant, which seats 1,000 diners. Another, Sun Sui Wah Restaurant, seats about 400.
Shirley Lum, who hosts walking tours of Toronto, including two sprawling Chinatowns, concurs with Fong on the new trend of families eating out at Chinese New Year.
"The whole family eats out at their favourite restaurant where the adult children pool their money and treat their parents and grandparents to the multi-course feast," she says. "Of course, the trick is to agree on ordering the various poetic dishes to ensure that superstitions, tradition and customs are observed so all the participants will have health, wealth, peace and love."
Lum is hosting her Chinese New Year eight-course banquet dinner on Jan. 30.
"It used to be that tradition dictated that only immediate family members were allowed to attend these banquets and they usually took place at home," she says.
Her event will take place at Taste of China restaurant in Chinatown west where attendees (not only Chinese) will be treated to stories about traditional Chinese New Year multi-course banquets.
Fong says that the banquets celebrating Chinese New Year provide a chance for large gatherings of family and friends to eat sumptuous meals that include dishes from the land, sea and air.
"These multi courses are symbolic to represent wealth, luck, happiness and long life," he says.
A traditional banquet-style dinner starts with soup and includes special poultry dishes such as crispy-skinned Peking Duck wrapped with warm crepes, or a whole steamed fish with ginger and onions.
"One of my favourite classic dishes is poached or steamed whole fish. This symbolizes that one's wishes will come true for the new year. Serving fish also represents a symbol of marital bliss and fertility since fish commonly swim in pairs," says Fong.
He adds that all family meals are slightly different, but "they are designed with foods that have certain meanings."
"New Year's dinners usually consist of eight to nine dishes, since both numbers are considered lucky." (Eight sounds like the Cantonese word for prosperity, while nine means long lasting.)
Other dishes that may be served are clams or scallops, which symbolize wealth and good fortune since these seafood creatures have a similar shape to coins, he explains.
"Roast pig signifies peace and purity while oyster and green lettuce represent good fortune and prosperity," Fong explains.
Other luxury foods include squab, pea shoots, baby bok choy, shrimp, abalone and crab. Both rice and "long-life" noodles are also important dishes, he says.
Finally, the Buddhist vegetarian dish called "Jai" is traditionally served as well, Fong says. "It represents purity and purification, since no fish or poultry can be killed for New Year's according to Buddhist traditions."
A very traditional and popular dessert is Nian Gao, a glutinous cake which is the Chinese "fruitcake." It is rich, dense and sweet.
"Some are plain, but some are served with yams, nuts and red dates symbolic of long life, harmony and good wishes," Fong explains.
Judy Creighton welcomes letters at 9 Kinnell St., Hamilton, Ont., L8R 2J8, but cannot promise to answer all correspondence personally. She can also be reached by e-mail at jcreighton(at)golden.net.
Food symbolism is very important at Chinese New Year. Here is a sample of foods to be enjoyed and what they represent:
-Oranges mean wealth, while tangerines represent luck and pomelo abundance, prosperity, having children.
-Eggs are for fertility and egg rolls for wealth.
-Fish served whole: prosperity.
-Bamboo shoots and black moss seaweed mean wealth and dried bean curd happiness.
-Chicken happiness and marriage (especially when served with "dragon foods" such as lobster).
-Noodles suggest a long life.